Wow. What an Easter!
A long weekend of sunny days, filled with an ever present long period swell that seemed to just keep on giving. Add in offshore breezes and board short warm water and you have the perfect conditions for a good old fashioned Easter hunt. Not the saccharine treats coveted and hidden by some weird rabbit hybrid. Im talking about a barrel hunt!
It had been some time, since I had devoted so much effort to swimming around and getting shacked with the crew. After all, there is nothing like a good Whomp session to put a smile on the dial and cleanse the soul via serious application of beach sand to the skin.
There was even a brief flirtation with fiberglass and spearfishing. Truly a weekend for the waterman…
Anyways, they say pictures tell a thousand words – and if so it would be a single word repeated a thousand times, stoked, stoked, stoked…
The hunt started with a ridiculously lush session at Manly, sans the usual crowd numbers. Glowing green water and nice walls to play with.
Surprisingly empty Manly
Followed up with a bone cruncher at Narrabeen where hanging in/on was the name of the day as it belted into the sand bank. Love these type of challenging waves and Narra is the best at producing them.
Laying back into a thick one
Winding up the green room
A brutalising session at Queenscliff where I learnt a new trick and lesson. Trick: its completely possible to doggie door barrels (exit via the front curtain) while bodysurfing. Lesson: its also important to close the mouth on your barrel face while doing so. It will save a lot of gagging and spluttering caused by inhalation of water.
Lastly, a slog swim against the current at Monavale for some dead end dredgers that exfoliated as they barrelled. Classic beachie bodysurfing with zero crowds.
Sand injection prepped
..and lastly, my favourite pic. Whomp dog AKA Vic Ivec playing hide and seek with the lens and lip on the aspirational turned fun day at Monavale.
Awesome start to Autumn!
Has spent over 30 years of his middle aged life trying to spend more time in the ocean. Likes to surf, bodysurf, free dive and pretend he enjoys chasing big waves.