Surfing during summer on the Eastern Seaboard of Australia can be very a fickle and frustrating affair. Its crowded, the waves tend to be small weak wind swell and the prevailing breezes are onshore... sounds pretty awful. That said, there is still a lot of fun to be had - as long as you are willing to mix it up and deviate from your standard quiver to a few more "eccentric" options. A little variety can really put a smile on the dial so think foam, think wood, think fins - anything that gets you in the water without the boring repetition of stagnant waves and closeout floaters.
If you cant beat the grouches riding the 10ft mals on those little peelers - then you might as well join them with a board that paddles nearly as well but actually turns. I like riding the single fin, as it feels smooth and forces you away from the rat-a-tat of normal shortboards into a more drawn and accentuated style. Perfect for keeping in touch with riding a big board should those swells of winter eventually re-appear.
Have had this board a long time and still love its ability to generate speed off nothing. It completely ignores dead sections and with its small quad fins, turns on a dime. Fast, skatey and fun with a lot of buoyancy in its short frame to help with getting into those weak waves. A long term favourite.
Once the exclusive territory of kids learning to surf, foamies are now commonly seen in the lineup. Besides being a thrill a minute loose and skatey surf option, they also provide a ticket to surfing in the hallowed ground between the flags. So perfect for snagging a few waves out of the summer crowds.
One of the hardest crafts to master and outside one or two really fun waves Im not even close. Definitely has potential but can be really hard work and a times unintuitive. Paddling out is like duck diving a yoga mat.
The next challenge. Think surf mat without the bouyancy and the flex and you get the Paipo. On the todo list for this summer.
What else to be said about bodysurfing? Its always overhead and probaby your best opportunity to get consistently barrelled in summer's shoreys. Fins provide the drive and handplanes the lift. The smaller and weaker the wave - the bigger the handplane required.
So thats my Summer "bored" quiver - whats in yours?
|Has spent over 30 years of his middle aged life trying to spend more time in the ocean. Likes to surf, bodysurf, free dive and pretend he enjoys chasing big waves.|