There is something about a good shore break and by shore break I don’t mean a wave that breaks off a beach. I’m talking about the wave that rears up, drawing the salt out of the sand into a liquid hammer to pound the granules on the beach into even smaller granules. The very same stuff that isn’t just stuck on you – it is compressed and embedded in your skin to be shed days/weeks later. A grinder of a wave, that eats and spits out the inflexible and brittle of surf craft. It’s a good thing the human body isn’t brittle… much..
Making these waves could be defined as “not falling out of the sky straight onto the sand for a beating”
That’s the type of wave the iconic Sandy Beach on Oahu is. You can understand why surf photographers love it as you can practically stand/kneel on the sand as it barrels over you. I recently made my first trip to the islands and this is how I found it.
No false advertising here!
So its with that in mind I pulled the trusty DaFiNs on and joined the small crew taking turns getting flogged. The first thing that stands out is the ledge(s) in wave, as it travel in from deeper water to practically ankle deep it forces the wave to ‘stand up’ in vertical step
Sandy Beach Steps
Making these waves could be defined as "not falling out of the sky straight onto the sand for a beating" but get down them early enough and you are guaranteed to be swallowed like Jonah in a granite barrel of whale proportions. There is no end other than the roar of glorious sand blasted destruction! Just how a good shorey should be!
A word of warning though – hitting the sandbank can be fun and cheaper than a chiro but get it wrong and you might actually need one!
|Has spent over 30 years of his middle aged life trying to spend more time in the ocean. Likes to surf, bodysurf, free dive and pretend he enjoys chasing big waves.|