Sand in all Places

September 27, 2014 0 Comments

Sand in all Places

Where: Narrabeen. NSW Australia
When: Early Sunday morning, 21st of September
Who: Good crew of Geg Cogar, Dave Archer, Marcio Rezende, Zachary Handcock and yours truly
What: Bodysurfing
Waves: 3-4ft SSE
Wind: Light variable

We had all congregated early at the Narrabeen surf club in the expectation of filming a segment for a body surfing Brazilian pay-per-view TV show (I couldn’t believe it either). Guys had traveled in from far and wide for the event and it was great to finally put some faces to names and meet some new  and old friends while we suited up.

Narrabeen is one of my favorite waves on the Northern beaches – it is challenging because it is nearly always steep, offers some hacksaw barrels on the shallow sandbank and you often feel like you escape rather than make waves. Which in between having sand crammed in your orifices is quite a euphoric mix of joy and relief.

The conditions this day were typical south swell Narrabeen and with the TV crew running late, the temptation of empty after empty wave detonating on the bank was too much. In we went, with a strong sweep keeping everyone honest and the line up spread out.

There were a few surfers in the water but in between snapping boards they were more than happy to let us have our choice of close-out/barrels. Some looking bewildered as we attacked the un-makeable with relish, hooting each other in to more and more ridiculous take offs and waves. Its unbelievable how many waves were caught and how much fun we had in conditions that could be described as unsurfable. Just that feeling of getting the shoulder in on the drop and the trying to hang into the barrel for as long as possible was enough.

In the end the TV crew didnt make it – preferring to shoot somewhere a bit more controlled and less shifty but it mattered little. With smiles and sand in all places we had had a great session practically to ourselves. Not often you get to say that nowadays but just shows if you are prepared to do something different you can still have a blast.

They say pictures say a thousand words – then here is a dictionary of a sand slamming nugget

narrabeen bodysurfing barrel

Dirty Narrabeen Sand barrel
If pictures say a thousand words - well then here is the Encyclopedia Britannica. Neatly captured and crafted by Jon Salvador... damn I love bodysurfing!

Russel P
Has spent over 30 years of his middle aged life trying to spend more time in the ocean. Likes to surf, bodysurf, free dive and pretend he enjoys chasing big waves.

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