First go at the Long Reef Bombie today, with mate and guide Joel Menz. After getting smashed on the paddle out, finally made it to the backline, in what can only be described as challenging conditions. 6ft+ straight south swell, big lumps in the faces and a very shifty peak that likes to ambush you.
Managed to get one ok one before being caught inside and having my brand new 8’8 surf board snapped in two. Massive bummer.
Outside of that it was really good fun being out there in the maelstrom soaking up the primal feel of it.
Has spent over 30 years of his middle aged life trying to spend more time in the ocean. Likes to surf, bodysurf, free dive and pretend he enjoys chasing big waves.