Narrabeen or ‘the Been’ as we affectionally refer to it, is one of my favourite waves to surf on the entire Northern beaches. The nature of the bathymetry means that the swell hits a sharp gradient from the depths right up to the sand line. This makes for steep, powerful, barrelling waves that detonate into the shallow water of the inside bank.
Combined with the short paddle out and a penchant for board devouring closeouts and its easy to why its so suited to bodysurfing. There is nothing like charging into a few cement mixer pits with your mates, coming up laughing and then doing it all again.
Saturday the 23rd of Jan was one of those days. The morning started windless, with the long period, 16 sec 3-5ft east swell causing oily A frames to rise up out of the deep for whomever brave enough to test their make-ability.
Good Morning Narrabeen!
In true Narrabeen fashion most that looked good were not and those that had "Eater of souls and devastator of worlds with sand enemas" written on them were. Perfect conditions for bodysurfing!!
An early morning left rolls through
Down the beach goodness
A good crew of us swam out, myself, Vic "Whomp Dog", Matt "The Condor" and Dave "Garage Handplanes" Archer. Despite espousing the need to be selective to avoid injury etc etc it was about 2 sec before "The Condor" had assumed a new moniker of "Conan the barbarian" as he proceeded to throw his 6'6 frame into every large spiteful wave that came his way. The rest of us were a bit more selective/nervous in our choices but it wasn't long before we had earned ourselves an island amongst the hordes of board riders. No doubt amused or disturbed at our relish for closeouts and being pile driven into the sand!!
Looking toward the inside
We bodysurfed till our arms were sore and the wind turned. The best of times with the best of mates. Just how all sessions should be.
|Has spent over 30 years of his middle aged life trying to spend more time in the ocean. Likes to surf, bodysurf, free dive and pretend he enjoys chasing big waves.|