There are simply not enough adjectives to describe how good bodysurfing is for the soul and your general wellbeing. Obvious caveats are the crazy stuff being done by those mad men taking on the wedge and north shore type waves. All extremely impressive, athletic feats requiring big brass kahunas but not what I'm talking about here. I'm talking about swimming out into the water in conditions you would otherwise drive away from. Then leaving the water completely stoked, grinning from ear to ear like you have just won the lottery. This is the norm when bodysurfing. It is so rare to have a truly bad session and I have been out in some pretty awful conditions of late! Stripped free of encumbering flotation there is also a certain purity to the use of your body as craft and instrument to surf waves. Being that close to the face it is hard to not develop a "feel" for the water, to become more attuned to the shape and mood. A skill that I'm 100% confident is transferred into catching and riding waves on other surf craft. That is if you ever decide to go back!
In a way for most of us its a full circle from becoming acquainted to the ocean as a child through bodysurfing, to learning to ride a bodyboard, moving on to surfboarding and then rediscovering that stoke from long ago all over again. So if that wasn't enough to get you out there - here is my list.
|Has spent over 30 years of his middle aged life trying to spend more time in the ocean. Likes to surf, bodysurf, free dive and pretend he enjoys chasing big waves.|