When you think of the Mentawais, you think of its fast and hollow mechanical precision being the perfect canvas for performance surfing. Throw in a wave hungry crowd, some very shallow coral reefs and you probably, definitely wouldn’t be thinking of bodysurfing
The wave itself then ledges up in front of this barnacled bouncer before breaking in parallel to another inside rocky ledge and finally finishing in the wash in front
Paddling out from Shelly beach was an experience - its the first time I have ever had to negotiate a 2ft shore break at a land facing beach
After one clean up set, I just turned and went late on the second set wave with no chance in hell of making it. Air dropping into the barrel and then following up with a little reef massage
I watched the video in awe, here is a guy screaming across the majestic Tahitian coast on a motor bike on the water…….. how is this possible! and then wait a minute lets catch/ride a wave.
It was Thursday afternoon and pulse rates had just been set alight with reports of a synoptic leviathan hurtling out of the polar depths below South Africa. Forecasters were calling it the largest storm cell of the winter
The message came through on WhatsApp and with it, a sense of nervous reality. That a simple conversation a few weeks ago was actually coming to life.We were going to bodysurf “Middles” in Cape Solander.
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